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A feature for Washington winemaker Rob Newsom, of Boudreaux Cellars, has been long overdue! Between visiting his winery in Leavenworth, helping with crush, and of course golfing with him at our annual Putt-n-Pour Wine Party, we have had the opportunity to spend quite a bit of time with Rob, enjoying his sly wit and southern hospitality. So, it’s probably about time we got around to asking him the hard-hitting questions that would eventually become a featured winery article. Well, here it is. When we connected with Rob this month and he was more than willing to give us the real story behind one of Washington’s hottest new wineries.

Rob does not have early beginnings in wine. His entrance into the world of professional wine making came later in life and grew from an appreciation for drinking good wine and a pioneering nature only matched by his appreciation for a hard days work. Lucky for us Rob’s insatiable work ethic and adventurous spirit happen to be well suited to producing premium wine. Without putting too fine a point on it, this self-taught winemaker is producing some of the best wine in Washington State.

Newsom’s pioneering spirit brought him to the Northwest from the bayous of Louisiana in the early 80’s to climb mountains. Soon climbing mountains turned into climbing frozen waterfalls, which eventually led him to Leavenworth, WA. One day in Icicle Canyon, Rob showed up to camp in his usual spot when he noticed a for sale sign. This was a surprise because the land he once thought to be government property just so happened to be private land with 25 acres for the taking. There was a downside however- recently married Newsom was completely broke. “We only had $150 to our name.” But that wouldn’t stop this pioneer. Rob proceeded to beg and borrow in order to get enough money to buy the property.

And like any true pioneer Rob built his first homestead from trees cut down from the Wenatchee National Forrest, which he used to build the home that he still lives in today as well as the buildings that would eventually house Boudreaux Cellars. From there Rob’s next big life adventure was about to begin, this time in wine.

WC: “How did you first get into wine?”
RN: “I started drinking Boone’s Farm in college.”

Rob had the usual introduction into wine that many of us have also experienced, with the sweet intoxicating (various) flavors of the ever-popular Boone’s Farm. From there an interest in fermented fruit was born. But it wasn’t until after he moved to Washington and was working for GORE-TEX that he truly began to drink and appreciate better wines, since part of his job included going out to dinner with clients and vendors. One night, in 1989, while Rob was entertaining at Ray’s Boat House he tried a bottle of ’85 Reserve Leonetti, on the company expense account of course. Rob liked the wine so much that he called Leonetti the next day (at this point not realizing that you don’t just call Leonetti).

He spoke with Nancy Figgins and asked for a case of the ‘85, which to his dismay was sold out. However, there was a chance that a case might be under the house and he was asked to call back the next day to confirm. The next day when he called back he was told that they did have one case they could sell him, but they would not ship it. He would have to drive to Walla Walla to get it. Undaunted, our pioneer set off for what would be the beginning of his next big adventure. When Rob drove out to pick up the case, he met Gary Figgins, owner and founder of Leonetti Cellars. They hit it off instantly and have been great friends ever since.
One night in particular while drinking some wine out at Figgin’s house, Rob commented, “your wine is getting too expensive,” to which Figgins simply replied, “well, why don’t you make your own?” Never backing down on the chance to try something new, Rob followed with “OK, how do you do it?” Gary then proceeded to lay it all out for him in detail. “Get some grapes. Squish ’em in a trashcan and try to leave them alone.” Next, Gary grabbed a couple books from inside and told Rob to read each one and then read them again, and once Rob had done that then Gary would answer any questions he had. From this simple exchange Boudreaux Cellars was born.

WC: “How was it opening a new winery?”
RN: “I had the only place in the state you could get a fifth of Boudreaux and a Happy Meal…we called it the McWinery. It was pretty cool.”

Rob initially made his wine in a garage next to a McDonalds in downtown Leavenworth. Those were good times before things got too serious (not that Rob has ever been too serious), when they used to just turn up the music and turn out a few barrels. “Initially I was just making wine to drink and entertain with”. His first year making wine was 1998, before the winery was officially bonded. The wine was a blend of half merlot and half cab franc with some grapes from Prosser. From there his production continued to increase to about 500 gallons in 2000, or just over 200 cases. It was after that Rob made the decision to get bonded because he just had too many barrels to be able to drink himself. Boudreaux’s first public release was the ’01 Cab of about 150 cases. These days Rob produces about 2000 cases focusing primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with some Chardonnay and Syrah as well. This production seems to suit him just fine. “My goal is to make better wine, not more wine.”

WC: “What do you believe makes a good wine/winemaker?”
RN: “Use the best barrels, the best cork, and the best fruit…and try not to screw it up.”

According to Rob, the key to his wines is that they are unfiltered, which leaves in the maximum amount of flavor. From there his wine making style follows a fairly simple plan: lead with big fruit up front, fill out the mid pallet, and make the finish as long as possible. “My goal for my red wines was to make them taste like a Leonetti or a Woodward Canyon; big and smooth.

For my whites I like a more Old World approach like a White Burgundy.” Rob also gravity feeds all the wines to keep them soft and smooth. As learned from Gary Figgins, Rob also makes a point to use the best of everything for his wines. His bottles and oak barrels are some of the best imported from France, and the Laffite corks he uses are the most expensive in America, but also the best. “We use cork because it is a renewable resource.” The grapes used are from some of the best vineyards in the state, including such revered sites as Champoux, Leonetti, Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills, and Sagemoor Vineyards. Sourcing grapes from so many locations throughout the Horse Heaven Hills, Walla Walla and Columbia Valleys, also allows Rob to remain diversified in his selection, choosing the best grapes that match the quality and consistency he strives for year after year. “The thing that’s hard is to make the same wine you made last year. Everybody loved last year’s wine, but fruit changes every year. Without diversifying you risk losing consistency.”

WC: “What advice do you give to anyone else interested in making wine?”
RN: “Just start doing it. You’ll figure it out.”

Boudreaux wines, which continue to sellout year after year, derive from a tried and true philosophy of best in, best out. The same holds true for Rob’s self-taught approach to winemaking. His relationships with some of the best winemakers in Washington State, such as Leonetti owner/winemaker Gary Figgins and Abeja owner/winemaker John Abbott, have helped Rob become the best winemaker he can be. “I have been very fortunate to have great teachers.” But if he had to do it over again Rob, who originally got his degree in Forestry, admits that a formal education in winemaking can also be very beneficial. “Everyday I learn something that I would have learned if I went somewhere like UC Davis. Go to school if you get the opportunity.”

Boudreaux Cellars is unlike any other winery you will ever experience. Hidden in the Cascade Mountains near Leavenworth, the tasting room is open by appointment only. But if you have the opportunity definitely call ahead and make the winding drive through Icicle Canyon to Rob’s handmade log cabin and winery. Once there you will greeted by one of the most hospitable winemakers in the state. Wander around and enjoy the scenery, but once you’re ready to go make sure to leave with plenty of wine in hand, because with Boudreaux Cellars being voted as “Best New Winery” and Rob “Best New Winemaker” by Seattle Magazine the wines won’t last long. To which Rob slyly says, “Drink’em up. I’ll make more!”

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BOUDREAUX CELLARS - LEAVENWORTH, WA