FEATURED WASHINGTON WINERY
CUILLIN HILLS WINERY
& DES VOIGNE CELLARS - WOODINVILLE,
WA
Another boutique winery
opening up in Woodinville’s Industrial
Wine Park, also known as “Hoodinville”
isn’t anything new. In this area it
seems like new wineries are popping-up everyday
as young winemakers take the next step from
their home basements and garages into larger,
more formal garages with tasting rooms.
Woodinville now has more than 30 wineries,
with many more on the way, so what makes
our new featured winery from the same area
any different?
Well for starters it’s actually two
wineries in one, each sharing the same space
as well as close family ties. Winemakers
and brothers Derek and Darren DesVoigne,
of Cuillin Hills Winery and Des Voigne Cellars,
each operate their separate winery under
the same roof. And while there may be several
differences between their wineries and winemaking
styles they also share a common belief in
the creation of an easygoing atmosphere
to enjoy wine. From the first time we met
the two brother/winemakers we knew there
was something a little different about these
two…in a good way. Nothing creepy.
They’re a pair of truly unique, fun,
non-intimidating winemakers that are making
some very drinkable wines!
Derek and Darren both welcome and embrace
anyone who comes into their shared location
with a spirit of hospitality and a heavy
pouring hand to make sure you don’t
leave thirsty! One of the first times we
met them was at Woodinville’s Passport
weekend where they roamed the crowds to
joke and mingle with the crowd and most
importantly offering refills of their great
wine. And while they may be lighthearted
in character and easy to joke around with,
when it comes to making quality wine these
newcomers remain absolutely focused. For
this is no friendly game between siblings
but rather full-time careers with a lot
at stake.
We met up with Derek and Darren, the entertaining
winemaking brothers, at their shared winery
location in Woodinville, WA to taste and
talk wine. The interview began as Derek,
of Cuillin Hills (pronounced Cool-in), excitedly
took his cruiser for a few laps through
the winery.
WC:
How did you guys get started making wine?
CH:
“Our dad’s basement winemaking
practice led to a drinking habit, which
then led to an interest in us making wine.”
The brother’s interest in wine came
from their father who in the 60’s
began making wine at home and then again
more seriously in ‘99 when he started
using real barrels and grapes (yes, you
can make wine without barrels and grapes).
Through this influence Derek and Darren
each gained an early appreciation for wine
but eventually went their separate ways
to becoming winemakers. Derek started with
his father making wine in their basement
and then went on to study at U.C. Davis
in their Extension Program. After studying
in California he returned to Washington
to work for Vin du Lac Winery in Chelan
as their assistant winemaker, where their
’03 Cabernet Franc was named Wine
Press Northwest’s Washington Wine
of the Year. Eventually Derek “got
tired of working with grapes in the snow”
and began looking west to move and make
wine of his own.
Around 2003, with Derek still working in
Chelan, Darren started making garage wine
back home in Seattle while “living
the .com nightmare!” Spawned from
his father’s influence and a friend
in college who made wine with everything
from various fruits to onions, Darren eventually
made the leap from personal production to
opening his own winery. “I originally
wanted to start a bottle [retail] shop but
decided to start a winery instead”.
It was at this point that Derek came back
from Chelan and the two brothers decided
to start each of their wineries together.
2004 was their first commercial vintage,
which they produced at Sorensen Cellars
in Port Townsend.
WC:
Being young winemakers, both with different
paths leading up to opening a commercial
winery, how much do you find a formal education
in winemaking affects the result?
CH:
“We are believers in education, experience,
and experiment.”
Darren who doesn’t share his brother’s
educational background in wine, but instead
took a more hands on approach, still agrees
that doing things by the book will benefit
a winemaker. “I believe that there
are things that happen throughout the winemaking
process that the books and education help
you get through.” While his brother
Derek, who attended formal schooling, believes
“guys that learn by the book make
wine by the book. The resulting wines are
clean and consistent.” Both winemakers
however, also share a similar rebellious
nature, which shows in their wine, and they
aren’t afraid to shake things up.
WC:
Does sharing a space for both wineries cause
any confusion?
DV:
“No, not really. He’s the Bagpiper
[Derek] and I’m the Jazz guy [Darren].”
Both wineries opened approximately 4 months
ago (March of ’06) and while it may
be initially confusing for some visitors
to have two wineries in one location, both
brothers are quick to differentiate themselves
based on each wineries founding. Derek draws
much influence from his Scottish ties. As
it states on his website – Cuillin
Hills Winery is what happens when a Scottish
girl and a wine loving Bagpiper find themselves
in one of the most beautiful places on earth;
the Highlands of Scotland. A place where
dreams and possibilities are realized, and
where a hobby suddenly changes its path;
Cuillin Hills Winery was born. With
the same free wheeling passion for both
wine and life Derek is definitely the fun
loving jokester of the two. Whether he’s
cruising around the winery on his customized
bike or throwing out sly comments with a
wink and a smile he keeps the tasting room
laughing and the atmosphere light.
Darren, who went to school at the American
Academy of Dramatic Arts in Los Angeles,
is a Jazz man himself. Seemingly more conservative
than his brother, Darren and his newly found
passion for winemaking move forward with
a more meticulous nature. Like his choice
in music he comes off being calm and collected
with a smooth sense of style, in both dress
and action, which may come from the time
he spent in L.A. While not as animated as
his brother Derek, Darren’s calm and
collected persona doesn’t stop him
from having funalong with his brother’s
more whimsical nature, if sometimes with
an slightly tentative grin. Actually the
two complement each other very well and
together these brothers-in-winemaking offer
a lighthearted approach to wine that people
enjoy when visiting the winery.
WC:
What in your winemaking styles do you find
to be most similar?
DV:
“We make what we like to drink. So
when the whole thing goes to sh!t we have
something to drown our sorrows in.”
For their initial release both brothers
used the same grapes, each wielding them
differently in order to make separate wines
in the styles that they each prefer. The
result is a cool contrast in winemaking,
which results in very different wines, even
of the same varietals. While Darren leans
toward Italian style wines, like Sangiovese,
Derek prefers those from the Rhone (in France)
including Syrah. “I’m leaning
toward what sells,” Derek says with
a sly grin as he jabs his brother with the
suggestion that his wines sell better. In
return Darren is quick to respond that “it’s
not the kilt that makes his [brother’s]
wines taste bad, it’s what’s
underneath!”
A little brotherly competition can’t
be all that bad because both brothers are
making great wines with a lot of potential.
 But
beyond their differing styles and preference
in wine they both share the same philosophy
in the wine experience. Throughout the shared
tasting room and winery they have created
a great vibe with cool colors, fun lighting,
music, and of course Derek and Darren themselves
running around slinging jokes and wine.
“People that come into the winery
tasting room will have a great time. You
won’t run into any pompous snobbery
here,” says Darren. It’s this
lighthearted approach to wine that extends
a quick visit to their winery into an afternoon
of fun. Whether it’s because you enjoy
the wine, or are just curious to find out
what jab will come next, the personality
they’ve created in their tasting room
makes you want to stay awhile.
WC:
How do you feel your first year has gone?
CH/DV: “The
response has been very positive.”
While each brother intends to increase production
from their initial release of approximately
400 cases to somewhere around 2000 while
fine-tuning their styles, both will continue
to focus on the tasting room experience.
“People in the tasting room have a
good time. Our goal setting out was to have
a winery that was not stuffy…and that
will always be the case.” Even as
the brothers plan to separate their wineries
and continue expanding into other markets,
restaurants and grocery stores, they will
stay true to their fun loving approach to
the wine experience.
The brothers of Cuillin Hills and Des Voigne
definitely make easy drinking wines that
are destined to only get better with additional
experience and vintages. Currently they
share the same space, but look for each
to have their own tasting room and production
facility in the near future. Their tasting
room is open on Saturdays 12 to 4pm. Make
sure to pay attention to any special events
at the winery as both brother’s approachable
attitude toward wine make for a very entertaining
atmosphere!
Note: When putting this
feature together we asked each winemaker
for a short bio. The following is what we
received.
Darren
– "Openly hostile and prone to
fits of violence surprising for a man of
his diminutive stature, Darren is immediately
hated by all who meet him."
Derek –
No comment…he must be off on his cruiser
somewhere stuck going round and round in
circles like a mini-tornado bent on mayhem
and destruction.
 CUILLIN
HILLS WINERY
Hours: Saturdays 12-4pm
19501 144th Ave NE, Suite C-200
Woodinville, WA 98072
Phone: 425.415.8466
Fax: 425.415.8411
www.cuillinhills.com
info@cuillinhills.com
DES VOIGNE
CELLARS
Hours: Saturdays 12-4pm
19501 144th Ave NE, Suite C-200
Woodinville, WA 98072
Phone: 425.415.8466
Fax: 425.415.8411
www.desvoignecellars.com
info@desvoignecellars.com
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